How to Make Flying Geese (4-at-a-Time Method)

When it comes to basic quilt building blocks, half-square triangles, and flying geese are two of the essentials. There are several different ways to piece flying geese blocks, including 1-at-a-time, 2-at-a-time, and the zero waste method.

In this blog post, I am going to give step-by-step instructions for the four-at-a-time flying geese method, which is my favorite method for making flying geese quilt blocks. It is also perfect for building saw tooth star quilt blocks, which happens to require 4 flying geese. So this method is perfect for quilts like Betsy.

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Video Tutorial

What is a flying geese quilt block?

Flying geese are commonly used building blocks in both traditional and modern quilt patterns. A flying geese block is made up of 1 large triangle and 2 smaller triangles on either side, with the middle triangle giving an abstract appearance of a goose in flight. The dimensions are always 2:1 (width:height).

What are the benefits of using the 4-at-a-time method?

Making four flying geese blocks at once, is the most efficient way to piece these units. It saves time and reduces fabric waste, win-win. There are many quilt patterns that utilize this method, including the Betsy quilt.

How to calculate fabric cuts for 4-at-a-time Flying Geese

Calculating the correct sizes for the fabric squares needed for this method can be a little intimidating, but fear not. I have done all the math for you. The following formula will provide a little extra fabric for trimming and squaring your blocks. When using this formula, be sure to use the finished block size.

Finished width + 1.5″ = 1 large square

Finished height + 1″ = 4 smalls squares

Flying Geese Formula Cutting Chart

Below is a chart to help you calculate the size of your fabric squares to get the correct size of flying geese blocks. NOTE: This chart uses the finished size to calculate the size of the starting squares.

How to make flying geese 4-at-a-time

Note: this easy method does not take into account directional fabric. If you are trying to use line-up directional prints, you will have to alter this method a bit to make sure your fabric isn’t pointed in different directions.
First things, first. On the wrong side of the small squares, make a diagonal line from corner to corner. I prefer to use an air-soluble marker for this, but you can use any marking method you like.

Next, pin 2 small squares to the 1 larger square, right sides together, making sure the smaller squares are positioned at opposite corners of the large square and the drawn diagonal lines (from the previous step) are in line with each other.

Next, sew 1/4″ on both sides of the drawn line. Your drawn line should be sandwiched between two rows of stitches.

Now, using a rotary cutter and acrylic ruler, cut the block in half on the marked line.

Gently press the seams open, taking care not to stretch the triangles. Fabric cut on the bias (45-degree angle) has much more stretch than fabric cut on the grain. Also, pressing the seams open, rather than to the side, will help reduce some of the extra bulk that can occur at the point of the triangle. I haven’t seen this be an issue with dark fabrics.

Next, pin another small square on the remaining 90-degree corner of the large triangle, right sides together, and with the marked line positioned as shown.

Once again, sew 1/4″ on both sides of the marked lines.

Lastly, cut on the marked line and press seams open. Voile!

How to trim flying geese

The last step in making flying geese is trimming. As I said earlier, this method provides a little bit extra fabric to allow you to square up and trim your final blocks to the exact size needed. You can trim your flying geese units using specialty rulers like the Creative Grids Ultimate Flying Geese Tool or the Loc Bloc Flying Geese Ruler, but these can be an extra cost. Thankfully you can trim your blocks using an acrylic quilting ruler just as well.

To do this, lay your block on your cutting mat. Using a standard acrylic ruler with a 45-degree line, lay the ruler over the block. Line up the 45-degree line with one of the seams. Make sure to leave a 1/4″ seam allowance past the point of the center triangle. Trim the top edge and side, removing the dog ears.

Rotate the block 180 degrees and trim the remaining two sides, taking care to line up the previously trimmed sides with the correct measurements. The blocks in the photos below are being trimmed to 5.5″ x 10.5″.